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Hatches Magazine / September 2006 / Raymond Tucker
 

2007 Fly Fishing Calendar
by Hatches Staff
Ron Alcott Interview
by Samuel Fava
The Last Trip
by Randall Thorpe
Kayak Fly Fishing in Saltwater
by Sean Murphy
Playing at my Vise: Tying Flies
by Graham Owen
Tying the Foamulator
by Ben Stacy
Inexpensive Tube Bodies
by Raymond Tucker
The Meal
by Michael Schmidt
Fly Tying Videos
by Kevin McKay
The ART Angle of Fly Fishing
by Ron P. Swegman
Thanks for the Memories
by Brad Wilson
Family Man
by Len Harris
Miranda's Machine Works Fly Boxes
by Will Mullis
What's a Sensi Worth?
by Royce Stearns
Great Lakes Salmon Primer
by Steve Clark
Little Beauty
by John Beaton
Am I Too Old to Teach Fly Casting?
by Joseph Meyer
2005 FTOTY Pattern Guide
by Hatches Staff
2006 Fly Tyer of the Year
by Hatches Staff
2006 TFF Photo Contest
by Hatches Staff
Write for Hatches
by Hatches Staff


Making Inexpensive Tube Bodies for Tube Flies
by Raymond Tucker (screen name “letumgo”)

I recently started tying a variety of tube flies, but found the price of the tube bodies to be surprisingly expensive.  The range of sizes available at the local fly shops also tended to be very limited (only available in one-inch increments.)  I set out to find a cheap way of making my own tube bodies that would allow me to easily customize them to suit the flies I intended to tie.  Let me share with you a way of making your own custom tube bodies:

Required Tools:

· Ruler

· Sharpie Marker

· Tubing Rotary Cutter

· Fine Sandpaper for Metal (600 grit)

· Single Blade Razor

· Lighter

· Bodkin

Supplies:

  • Hollow Metal Tubing (1/8” Diam. Or 3/32” Diam. are the most common sizes used in making tube fly bodied, but you may want to try 1/16” Diam. if you are interested in trying tiny versions of tube nymphs).  You can purchase metal tubing from hobby and craft shops, or on line.  I found a number of sources of very inexpensive metal tubing by searching Google using the following text string “1/8" copper tubing”.  You should be able to find small diameter tubing in brass, aluminum and stainless steel.  Each of these metals has a different density, allowing you to customize the sink rate of the fly and the zone of the water column you would like to fish.
  • Keep in mind that you can also use the hollow plastic tubing from the center of a Q-Tip if you want minimum weight and cost.  They come in a full range of colors.
  • One site that seems to carry a wide range of metal tubing is the following: (http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rda.htm).  Please note that I have not purchased from this site, nor am I in any way associated with this site.  I am simply listing it to illustrate what you should be looking for and the variety of options that are available.
  • A package of twelve 1/8" copper tubes x 12” long sections (by K&S Engineering) will cost around $8.19 (US.)  This amount of tubing could make you 144 pieces of 1” long tube fly bodies (which works out to roughly 6 cents each.)
  • When you purchase finished tube fly bodies in a fly shop, they will usually cost you around $5.00 (US) for 10 pieces x 1” long (which works out to 50 cents each.)
  • HMH sells an assortment of single-walled hollow plastic tubing used to line the hollow metal tubing to prevent line abrasion and prevent sharp edges from cutting your line.  If you are intending to use the 1/8” or 3/32” metal tubes, you will need to buy the “micro” and “small” diameter versions. 
  • The “micro” size plastic tubing will fit through the center of most of the standard metal beads and metal cone-heads used for fly tying, allowing you to easily customize the tube body and add weight.

Making the Tubes:

First measure and mark the metal tubing in the desired lengths that you want to create.


Next – Cut the tubing to length with the rotary tubing cutter.

You should end up with a bunch of pieces like this:

Next sand the ends of the tubing on the emery paper to remove any significant burrs from the cutting operation. 

Now its time to assemble the tube bodies by sliding the tubing onto a fine plastic tube and trimming to length.  Be sure to let the end of the plastic tube extend past the end of the metal tube so you can later melt it to cover the ends of the metal tube.

Trim the plastic liner to length with the razor and carefully melt the ends to hold the liner in place. 

CAUTION - After melting the plastic, you will need to insert a bodkin into the liner to insure the center is still open to allow line through the tube.  If the bodkin will not slide easily though the liner, you should cut off the end and carefully re-melt the end.  It is important to do the bodkin check before you go through the trouble of creating a fly and then finding that it can not be used because the center is blocked.

In the photo below, I have melted the end of the plastic tubing on the left hand side of the photo.  The process is repeated on the other end once the bead has been put in place.

Customization Options:

You can customize the tube by adding any bead (metal or whatever colored craft bead you have on hand – or can “borrow” from your wife…)

 

Enjoy!



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