| Materials Used Hook - Mustad C49S (Curved Caddis Hook) / Size 12 Tungsten Bead - Gold/5/32" Diameter Thread - Red 6/0 UNI-Thread Worm Body - Two full length strands of Flexi Floss (or Baby Bug Wrap) (Twist the strands together and then fold in half before tying them in. The strands will naturally twist together to form a curly tail) Legs - (Two additional strands of leg material cut into many 5/8" long strands. Add these sections of leg material to a short dubbing loop and twist firmly together and then wrap as a chenille) Thorax - Ice Dubbing TYING INSTRUCTIONS: These are really easy to tye and they look like they will slay bass and panfish. The flies have a ton of movement and the little legs should create a lot of disturbance in the water as the fly is retrieved. Tye them up in a bunch of different colors and give em a try. |
| 1) Slide tungsten bead head onto the hook. |  |
| 2) Place hook in the vice and mount thread. Wind the thread partway back towards the hook point and then back to the bead head. This will form a base for the leg material to bite into when it is tyed onto the hook. |  |
| 3) Cut four strand of rubber leg material. In this case I have cut two strands of each color to get a blended (variegated) appearance in the finished worm body. Two strands will be used to form the worm body and the other two strands will be cut up to form the legs. |   |
| 4) Tye in two strands of the rubber legs. Let the ends of the material hang off the end of the hook to form additional legs. It is okay to tye them in long, since you will be trimming them to the desired length when the fly is finished. |  |
5) Clip the end of the two strands of rubber legs in the jaws of a pair of rotary hackle pliers (below).  |
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| 6) Twist the material together until the material wants to wind back on itself when you release the tension. There needs to be enough twists in the material so that it all stays together when the worm-tail is formed. Be careful not to over-twist the material, because it makes the worm-tail stiff and reduces its movement. |  |
| 7) Form the worm body by folding the twisted strands in half. They will automatically twist themselves together to form the worm-tail. When you get the length you want, tye off and clip off the excess. |  |
| 8) Form a small (~2” long) dubbing loop, and insert the end of the loop into a dubbing twister hook. 8a) Take two strands of the leg material and trim it into a small pile of parallel 5/8” long pieces. Carefully insert these pieces into the dubbing loop so that they are all perpendicular (90°) to the loop. |   |
| 9) Twist the dubbing loop until the legs are all firmly captured by the tying thread. The legs will start to get pinched together when the thread gets tight, but that will help hold them in place while they are wrapped onto the body. |  |
| 10) Wind the dubbing loop along the shank of the hook and tye it off when the legs are all in place. Be sure to brush the legs back out of the way while wrapping them, so they do not get trapped under the thread of the dubbing loop. |  |
| 11) Add some ice dubbing to the tying thread and form a thorax. This will help hold the legs out to the side and also gives the fly a more finished appearance. Mix and match the colors to suit your color scheme. In this case I have used a mix of UV Red and Olive Brown Ice Dubbing. |  |
| 12) Whip finish twice and clip off the tying thread. FINISHED. |  |
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This week’s typing tip is in response to a question by Hatches reader, Nick S. from Boise, ID. Nick wanted to know if we had any suggestions for a small, lightweight fly tying vise to use streamside, or on backcountry fly-in/ hike-in fly fishing trips.
GLOBE PEQUOT ( THE LYONS PRESS, FALCON), November 1997
Binding Type: Hardcover
Retail Price: $16.95 at the Hatches Store
ISBN: 1-55821-067-9
“The trout’s biggest advantage is selectivity, and we can counteract it only by knowing the insects that make up his diet. This is the reason for the study of stream entomology by the angler, and it is often the weak link in his skill.”
-Ernest Schwiebert
Trout Stream Insects: An Orvis Streamside Guide is by no means a new book. However, since it was first published in 1990, it has successfully been introducing novice …
Called the “bobbin of bobbins,” Marc Petitjean’s “Thread Through Bobbin,” aims to solve a few classic design limitations of standard bobbins.
Sand Creek is a pretty little piece of trout water that harbors some very fussy fish. Clear water in a small creek demands a quiet approach; casting from the bank is a good strategy when fishing small flies to springtime trout. Photo by Russ Forney
Springtime in Wyoming can be pretty elusive. Just when the first flush of prairie wildflowers sweetens the air, the next storm buries them under a foot of snow. Somewhere between the first Meadowlark and the last new calf, winter finally begins to relax its icy grip. …
With rubber legs showing up in more and more fly patterns, one common problem fly tier’s are facing is that they get in the way when tying a whip finish knot. In this week’s Tying Tips, Hatches Magazine staff member Alex Cerveniak shares three quick and easy ways to keep those rubber legs out of the way.
|  Hatches is an annual publication with a strong devotion to professional writing, beautiful photography and informative articles pertaining to both the artistic and practical aspects of fly tying. Each issue features 13 featured articles that span a massive 96 pages.
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