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Hatches Magazine / May 2006 / Brian Ahern
 

Making Your Own Furled Leaders
by Breck Miller
Chris Helm Interview
by Samuel Fava
A Taste of Saltwater in the Midwest
by Michael Schmidt
Rabbit Strip Dahlberg Diver
by Alex Cerveniak
The Case For Soft-Hackle
by James Capes
Roots in Sand
by Sean Murphy
Working with Rabbit I: Bunny Leeches
by Will Mullis
Whitlock's Red Fox Squirrel Nymph
by John Ridderbos
Building a Drying Motor
by Brian Ahern
Hooked with Mark Kruppa
by Will Mullis
Wild Animals
by Rick Griffith
The Pool
by John Torchick
Deadly Waters
by Mark LaRoi
Write for Hatches
by Hatches Staff
May Giveaway
by Hatches Staff
Product Reviews
by Hatches Staff

"Howto" Articles
- Salmon Fishing 101
- Chuck and Duck Explained
- Tackling The Great Lakes Surf
- Pike Fishing 101

Book Reviews
- Rivers of Shadow, Rivers of Sun


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Categories: / Rod Building

Building a Drying Motor
by Brian Ahern

I have often been asked how to make a drying motor, and have also found this to be a frequent question on various web site bulletin boards. As a result I felt it may be of some use to put together instructions on how mine was done. A drying motor can be constructed with the basic around the house tools at a cost of about $15.00

Required Tools

1. Drill & Bits

2. 2 in Hole saw.

3. Miter box with a back saw ($12.95 at Wal-Mart).

4. Screw driver.

Materials list

1. Drying motor http://www.surplusecenter.com/    Surplus Center has motors of every description for a good price. Ex. 40 rpm Continuous use $3.99

2. Wood stock 4in X 2 ft X 1/2in 1 each (I use poplar from the local lumber yard $2.49 each).

3. Electrical cord $1.95.

4. Screws.

5. Self stick felt.

Instructions

The instructions for this are straight forward.

The stock that I use comes sized for length and width at ½ inch thick and is available in Pine, Oak, Poplar and Ash. By purchasing the material in this manner all cuts can be made with a Back Saw and a Miter box.

The V cut on the support is accomplished with the back saw. The cut for the motor was done with a hole saw and the motor has its own mounting flange.

For a cord a replacement cord was used and the connections were covered with small shrink tubing. An on/off switch can be added if one wishes. The spindle on this motor will accept a self-centering chuck if you prefer that method.

When building a rod the last step for me is to secure the reel seat. Making this my last step accomplishes two things. First I do not have the weight to deal with and second I use old blanks cut to various lengths to secure the rod to the motor thus saving about $22.95. In the past I pick up the old blanks for $5.00 at the pawn shop.

For an Epoxy I use U-40 LS Supreme (Dura Gloss) and apply it with Box Wood modeling tools. Replacement syringes can be purchased at a farm and ranch supply for about $.29 each.

I hope this Drying Motor works as well for you as it has for me and that the cost is within a range that you can accept. Since all things can be improved. If you find a modification that makes for better operation, let us know so it can be shared with all. ~ Brian Ahern (Rovercat)

      



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Price: $6.95 for each issue
The Premiere issue is ready for shipping & the Fall 2008 issue will be available September 1st.