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Versatility by Ralf Maky
After 25 years of serious boating I had reached a dilemma while trying to justify the ongoing expenses of operating my trolling rig. What started out as the perfect boat for chasing salmon and cruising had turned into a financial nightmare! Running at cruising speed it would gobble up 17 gallons an hour, and dock fees ran anywhere from $1200-$2000 a season. The last straw was in August ‘03 when marina fuel hit $2.85. My wife and I had already toyed with the idea of downsizing and started shopping at the 2001 Detroit Boat Show. Those cute little Center Consoles caught our eye and the features seemed adequate for our needs. As luck would have it on that August afternoon, the boat we’d been looking at was drastically reduced to blow it out to make room for the new models about to hit showroom floors. A handshake later I was the proud owner of a 1750 Scout with a 90-horse Yamaha power package. The thought of upgrading to the optional 115 4-stroke came to mind, but the additional cost and weight didn’t seem worth it, not to mention I’d put myself on a $20,000 budget for the purchase and riggings.
As with any boat, one should “live it a while” before drilling holes in the deck. I spent the rest of the summer/fall thinking about this project and buying some of the essential components. Naturally the ability to troll for salmon was a must, but it's shallow draft provided access to other game. Due to the open floor plan it lends itself quite nicely to fly-fishing. The list grew…
We needed 2 electric downriggers; 2 planer-board reels that would be mounted on the handrail since I didn’t want to clog the bow with a mast; an electric bow motor with integrated charging system, a few additional rod holders for dipseys and some of the necessary electronic gear, which was stripped from the old boat.
A good portion of the Scout was quite friendly for rigging purposes with the exception of the bow motor. One of the factory options is to have it wired at the bow. I strongly recommend this option. Pulling wire through a foam core hull required doing it in sections. Some wiring tubes exist, but some only have enough diameter to accommodate the existing wires. In order to mount the base for the motor and provide power, 2 additional access holes had to be cut in the anchor compartment. This was also a good location for the 50-amp breaker.
The plug for the motor sits on top of the deck. I played around with different positions for the plug, but since the bow cleat is already something that will grab one’s fly line, it seemed like a perfect spot.
Trying to keep every gadget removable I ordered a base plate for the motor. Pull the mounting pin, and the entire motor comes off. It’s perfect for motel parking lots and covering the boat while towing.
To complete the electrical portion for the motor, a charger and another battery had to be mounted in the console.
The external plug for the charger exits on the starboard side of the console and is easily reached without entering the boat.
For the downriggers I opted for pedestal mounts. They slid right into the existing flush-mount rod holders and did not require any additional drilling. Mounting the electrical part was another circus of fish tape and the port side did not provide a good spot for the plug. A bait well occupies that corner of the boat and it’s sealed. Running a live wire through running water didn’t seem like a good option, regardless of insulation. I placed both downrigger plugs on the same side and added a longer lead to the port rigger. Once the downriggers are removed the only thing left are the plugs.
As for the electronics package, I didn’t want to invest a fortune. I’m sure over the years portions of it will be upgraded. The Scout has a waterproof electronics box and it seemed like a perfect spot for a GPS and my Fish Hawk (speed and temp at the ball). Neither of those units is fully waterproof. The graph sits on top of the dash and the mounting allows it to be turned 180 degrees to allow viewing from the bow of the boat. For communications I went with an Icom hand-held unit, since running an 8-foot whip didn’t seem like a good option while hauling feathers.
The outboard rod holders are once again removable. A few turns with an allen wrench will reduce them to simple snag-free base plates.
In order to please my wife I purchased one of the optional bow cushions. With it and the cushion provided on the cooler/seat it makes a very comfortable surface for sunbathing. The compartment below-deck is a full-sized, insulated fish well.
Since the purchase last August, I’ve logged over 170 hours on this boat. It’s been in many different waters including Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, the White River in Arkansas, the Mosquito Lagoon, Banana River, Haul-over Canal (Fl) and several other smaller local bodies of water. The performance and economy are ideal. It can handle most situations, although one needs to keep an eye on the weather, as with any other craft. Just pick your days. I wouldn’t hesitate to take it 20 miles off shore.
One of the more recent upgrades included a Lowrance 339 C with mapping features, and the possibility of converting the cleats to flush mounts
The total package (including trailer and fuel) weighs in at around 2500 pounds. Most minivans and mid-sized cars will have no issues towing it. Efficiency on the water isn’t too shabby either. With sensible operation (4000 rpm @ 27 mph) it will squeeze a gallon of fuel for around 4.5 mpg. That allows it an approximate range of 140 miles per tank.
See you on the water…
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