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Hatches Magazine / August 2006 / Matt Erny
 

Picking Flowers
by Breck Miller
Tying the Foam Stone
by Don Stracener
Above the Waterfall
by John Beaton
Feather Detox
by Alex Cerveniak
Chilin in the Whee
by Mike Holleman
Trout Town USA
by Brian Tompkins
Tying The Pheasant Tail Nymph
by Jim Browning
Tying the Wooly Bugger
by Matt Erny
My First Look
by Randall Thorpe
Stories of Atlantic Canadian Fly Tiers
by Damian Welsh
Tying the Epoxy-Head Clouser
by James Capes
All in a weeks work
by Joseph Meyer
River's Reach
by Vernon Berry
Y2K
by John Berry
Tying the Disco Leech
by Daryn Smith
2005 FTOTY Pattern Guide
by Hatches Staff
2006 Fly Tyer of the Year
by Hatches Staff
2006 TFF Photo Contest
by Hatches Staff
Write for Hatches
by Hatches Staff


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Random Product Review

Tying The Class Salmon Fly - A Modern Approach to Traditional Techniques


Categories: / Fly Tying / Patterns / Streamer / Beginners

The D5 Wooly Bugger
by Matt Erny

Materials You Will Need
Hook: Daiichi 2220 Size 6.
Thread: Ultra Thread 140.
Tail: One Marabou Blood Quill.
Body: FTD (Fly Tiers Dungeon) Hair Web Black Dubbing.
Hackle: One Saddle Hackle.
Flash: H2O Flash and Hologram H2O Flash from FTD.

Step 1: Tie thread to hook, covering middle portion.

Step 2: Take a marabou blood quill and pinch it at about the same length as the hook shank.

Step 3: Tie in the feather to about ¾ the way to the eye. This helps to build bulk and shape the body.

Step 4: Now you may select your lead if you choose to use it. You may use any size lead to achieve any sink rate or depth you choose. I wrap it in backwards compared to how I normally tie, so my first wraps of thread lie on top of the lead, not in-between the wraps. Tie the lead off and add a drop of head cement if you choose.

Step 5: Now you can tie in some tail flash. I used one strand of black and one strand of red H20 Flash from FTD, folded in half and cut the loop. Then I tie it at the middle and fold it back. Lastly I secure it with a few wraps so it will not pull out.

Step 6: Select a saddle feather. I strip off the fluff and clean the side I like the least of all of its barbs. Tie it in by the tip. This helps make a nice tapered shape and also makes palmering a lot easier.

Step 7: Dub the body. I am careful to not over-dub, but yet build a nicely shaped body.

Step 8: Wrap the body. I pull the hackle barbs back toward the tail to get a nice palmered angle. The more wraps you make the thicker the body looks. I normally use more wraps for muddier/stained water, and less for clearer water.

Step 9: Wrap the neck. Here I made 10 wraps. Again, more wraps move more water. In stained water I'll make 10; in clear, I'll make 5. After I make the wraps I'll pull the barbs back and tie in a smooth head to hold their angle toward the tail.

Step 10: Lastly, tie in the last of the flash that flows from the head to the end of the tail. Here I used one strand of black and one strand of red holographic H2O Flash from FTD. I have it folded in the middle, one strand on each side, trimmed to the length of the tail.

 


http://www.day5flies.com/

 



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